Our Seed Planting Guide
| Plant type |
Date to Sow Indoors |
Date to Sow in Garden |
Seed Spacing
P=Plants
R=Rows |
Seed depth |
Maturity |
| Asparagus |
n/a |
Perennial
Plant in early spring |
P=12"
R=3-4 ft. |
2-3" |
Second year |
| Avocado |
Any Time |
Tree |
P=10 ft. |
2-3" |
3-5 years |
| Beans, bush |
n/a |
April-May |
P=4"
R=18-24" |
1½" |
60 days |
| Beans, pole |
n/a |
May |
P=36"
R=48" |
1½-2" |
60 days |
| Beets |
n/a |
April and again in June |
P=4"
R=18" |
½" |
40-70 days |
| Broccoli |
n/a |
April-May
|
P=24"
R=30-36" |
½-1" |
4-5 months |
| Brussels Sprouts |
n/a |
Plants: early spring
Seeds: late June |
P=18-24"
R=3 ft. |
¼" |
90 days |
| Cabbage |
Feb-March, Into garden in May |
April |
P=24"
R=24-36" |
½" |
4-5 months |
| Carrots |
n/a |
April and again in July |
P=2-4"
R=18-24" |
½" |
90 days |
| Cauliflower |
Jan.-Feb.
Into garden in May |
May |
P=15"
R=24-36" |
½" |
4-5 months |
| Corn (sweet) |
n/a |
May
Successive plantings every 2 weeks |
P=3"
R=24" |
1" |
2-3 months |
| Cucumbers |
n/a |
May-June |
P=36-48"
R=36-48"
3-4 plants per mound |
1" |
2-3 months |
| Eggplants |
Feb.-March
Set in garden in May |
2 weeks after last frost |
P=24"
R=36" |
¼" |
4-5+ months |
| Gourds |
n/a |
Last Frost |
P=12" |
¾" |
120-180 days |
| Horseradish |
n/a |
Perennial
Plant in early spring |
P=4 ft. |
2" |
First Fall |
| Kiwi |
n/a |
Set plants in early Spring |
Plant male vine and female vine one foot apart |
Node at ground level |
Second year |
| Lettuce |
Feb.-March
Set in garden in early April |
April |
P=8-12"
R=18-24" |
¼" |
70-90 days |
| Okra |
n/a |
2 weeks after last frost |
P=12"
R=3-4 ft. |
¾" |
50-75 days |
| Onions |
February
Set in garden in April |
Plant onion sets in April |
P=3"
R=12-18" |
½" |
seeds 3-4 months
sets 50-60 days |
| Peanuts |
n/a |
Plant seeds in early April |
P=3"
R=30-36" |
1-1½" |
Fall |
| Peas |
n/a |
April
Successive plantings every 2 weeks |
P=3-6" (double row)
R=72" |
1½-2" |
60 days |
| Peppers |
Feb.-March
Set in garden in May |
May |
P=24"
R=24" |
½" |
4-5 months |
| Potatoes |
n/a |
April-May |
P=8"
R=36" |
3-6" |
90-150 days |
| Pumpkins |
n/a |
May |
P=6-8"
R=36" |
3-4" |
4-5 months |
| Radishes |
Feb.-March
Into garden early April |
April |
P=1-3"
R=18-24" |
½" |
30 days |
| Raspberry |
n/a |
Late Fall/
Early Spring |
P=2 ft.
R=7-8 ft. |
2" deeper than current depth |
Early Summer |
| Rhubarb |
n/a |
Perennial
Plant in early spring |
P=24"
R=24-36" |
¾" |
Second spring |
| Spinach |
n/a |
April |
P=6"
R=12-18" |
½" |
90 days |
| Squash |
n/a |
May-June |
P=36"
R=36"
3-4 plants per mound |
½-1" |
4-5 months |
| Strawberries |
n/a |
Late Fall/
Early Spring |
P=18"
R=18" |
plant crown |
Varies |
| Tomato |
March |
May |
P=30-36"
R=30-36" |
½" |
4-5 months |
| Watermelons and muskmelons |
n/a |
May |
P=72"
R=72"
1-2 plants per mound |
1" |
4-5 months |
More Vegetable,
Herb & Flower Info
Alstroemeria,
Bonsai, Clematis, Hardy Cyclamen, Eucalyptus, Helleborus, Hosta,
Pimula, Iris
Between October and
February, sow in compost and just barely cover. Place container in
cold frame. Protect from predation by mice. Leave till spring. Keep
medium moist but not wet. In spring bring containers into greenhouse
or place on a well lit, but not sunny, windowsill. Keep moist. If
seeds do not germinate, keep them in cool, moist conditions through
summer and place back in cold frame in late fall. Once seeds do begin
to germinate, remove them individually almost at once and set in
pots. An alternative method is to sow between March and September
in a compost designed for these plants. Place the container in a
plastic bag and place in refrigerator for 2 to 3 weeks. Remove and
place in cold frame. If some should germinate, plant up when large
enough to handle. The rest of the seeds will remain dormant until the
following spring. Alstroemeria, Clematis, Hardy Cyclamen and
Helleborus can take up to 18 months to germinate. Primulas can
also be sown in a pre-moistened peat-based compost. The seeds should
not be covered if using this method. Cover container with glass or
plastic and place in the dark at 60ºF. If the temp goes over
65º, germination will not occur. Once seeds have begun to
germinate, sprinkle a small bit of compost over them. When the leaves
appear, move container to a place that is well lit (not direct
sunlight) and has a temp of 55ºF.
Amaranthus
|
Sow seeds in full sun about 1"
apart in warm (70 degrees F) fertile, well-drained soil, covering
lightly with fine soil or thin sprinkling of grass mulch to hold
the small seeds in place. Thin to 6" apart in rows 12"
apart. Best results are obtained if plants are provided ample
water and fertilizer, especially nitrogen, to promote leaf growth.
Pinch off terminal buds to encourage branching, harvest individual
leaves and cut back to 6" to encourage lateral growth for
successive harvests. Cut young tender leaves once or twice a week
until plants start to set seeds.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Originating in South Central
Mexico, amaranth now has worldwide distribution. It produces
generous quantities of large tender and nutritious oval leaves
(medium-green overlaid with a burgundy cast and resembling
coleus). Those strains identified as vegetable amaranth are
selected for their culinary attributes. Others, identified usually
as Joseph’s-coat cultivars, have been selected for their
colorful foliage.
Problems:
Chewing insects such as cucumber
beetles and Japanese beetles may damage leaves. Floating row
covers can be affective deterrents.
Uses:
Amaranthus are excellent raw in salads, used as a steamed
vegetable, and included in soups and stews. Other strains of
Amaranthus tricolor bear large leaves in brilliant shades of red,
yellow, bronze and green on handsome plants reaching up to 6 feet
high. They make a strong statement in large borders, in large
beds, and even in pots.
|
Asian Greens
|
Asian greens are cold-tolerant and
the seeds may be sown in flats or directly in the ground in early
spring or in late summer to fall for a late season crop. Row
covers may be necessary during severe cold, especially for mibuna
which is less cold hardy. Seeds may also be sown during the summer
although the quality may be less and bolting may be a problem in
very hot weather. Asian greens grow best in fertile,
moisture-retentive soil and lack of moisture at any stage
adversely affects quality. Floating row covers provide sun and
pest protection. Depending on the cultivar, space 4" to 18"
apart with 18" between rows. Plants may be harvested at
almost any stage from seedling to mature plant. Harvest individual
leaves or cut the plant about 3/4 inch above ground level to
encourage resprouting.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Asian greens is a general term
used to describe mizuna, mibuna, and in some cases, komatsuna
greens. Other common names include Japanese mustard, potherb
mustard, Japanese greens, and California peppergrass. They are all
characterized by clumps of dark green leaves with thin white
stalks. Mizuna leaves are dissected and feathery, mibuna leaves
are long and narrow, and komatsuna leaves are oval-shaped.
Primarily grown in Japan, these vegetables are becoming more
popular in the United States, especially mizuna which is used in
mesclun mixes. The flavor of Asian greens resembles that of
cabbage, mustard, and spinach; as the plants age, the flavor may
become more piquant.
Problems:
Asian greens suffer from all the
normal Brassica pests and diseases. Flea beetles, aphids, slugs,
cabbage caterpillars and cutworms are the most likely pests.
Possible diseases are bacterial rot and turnip mosaic virus.
Uses:
Asian greens are used raw or cooked in salads, soups, stir
fries, or stuffing. Milder greens will be more flavorful when used
raw.
|
Banana,
Coffee, Cyads (and similar plants); Orange, Palms, Tea
These
plants are highly erratic in germination and can require several
months. Seeds must be soaked for a minimum of 2 hours in warm water
before sowing. Sow in compost especially designed for these plants
and place in the dark at 75ºF. Keep compost moist at all times,
but not wet. Check regularly and once in a while, dig around in the
compost with a small knife or similar tool. Sow seeds just below the
surface of the soil. Should a seed produce a root and no shoot, prick
it out immediately and pot it in a 3 to 4" pot. It should
produce a shoot then. When ready to be potted, Cycads prefer a
planting medium of half sand and half peat. Tea requires the
same treatment as the others but prefers a temperature of 60-65ºF.
After soaking, remove the parchment-like on the coffee seeds
with your fingernail before planting.
BEAD
PLANT
Use
a good draining medium free of fertilizer. Equal parts moss, peat and
sand makes a good medium. Barely cover the seed and cover with glass
or clear plastic. Place container in temp of 65-75ºF. Since too
much condensation can damage the young seedlings, be sure to lift
glass or plastic and remove daily. When the first seedlings are
spotted, remove cover and place in bright spot, but not in direct
sunlight. Plant up seedlings as soon as possible in a mixture of ½
peat and ½ sand. Keep moist and in a shaded spot until well
established.
Begonia,
Bromellads, Cineraria, Calceolaria, Drosera, Christmas Cactus, Living
Stones, Meconopsis, Nepenthes, Rubber Plants, Saintpaulia,
Sarracenias, Streptocarpus, Tibouchina
Surface sow on
compost that is quite moist. Cover container with glass or clear
plastic and place in diffuse light at temperature of 65ºF. When
seeds begin to germinate, remove covering gradually. Seeds can also
be spread on damp paper toweling or blotting paper and covered with
plastic on windowsill which gets good light. Do NOT place in direct
sunlight. Keep paper moist until seedlings are large enough to prick
out and plant in small pots. For Drosera, Nepenthes, and Sarracenias
make sure medium is both moist and free draining. Use NO fertilizer,
but compost should contain some sphagnum moss.
Cacti
Sow in compost.
Furrow should be very shallow and seeds must not be completely
covered. Water from beneath. Cover container with glass, then a piece
of dark paper (as from paper bag) or a piece of black plastic.
Position in a dark place, maintaining a temperature of 70-75ºF.
Keep moist. When germination commences, move to a position that
receives indirect light (do not place in sun). Allow good air flow
and continue watering from beneath. When seedlings begin to overcrowd
the container, pot up. During the first winter season, make sure to
keep plants warm, but do not allow to get too dry. From second year
onward, keep on the dry side during the winter months.
Chinese, Pak Choi
|
Pak choi is a cool season plant
that will tolerate light frosts. Seeds should be sown about ¼
inch deep in early spring for a spring and early summer crop or in
mid to late summer for a fall crop. Spacing is dependent on the
size of the particular variety being grown and on its intended
use. Pak choi that is to be harvested in the immature or baby
stage may be grown much closer together than pak choi that is to
be grown to the mature stage. Harvest pak choi whenever it reaches
the desired size by picking individual leaves or cutting the whole
head at ground level. If sown during the summer, pak choi will
have a tendency to bolt, although that may be lessened by
consistent watering and harvesting the plants when young. Pak choi
grows quickly making it a good plant for intercropping. Row covers
may be useful in preventing insect and frost damage.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
There are several names for the
Asian vegetables in this group including pak choi, bok choy,
Chinese celery cabbage, Chinese white cabbage, mustard cabbage,
and choysum. Most are characterized by a loose head of green
leaves with white stalks. (Pak or bok translates to white and choi
or choy translates to vegetable.) There are many kinds available
ranging in size from 3-4 inches tall to 24 inches tall, with
leaves from dark green to light green and with stalks from white
to pale green.
Problems:
Insect pests include flea beetles
and caterpillars such as cabbage loopers and cutworms. Slugs and
snails may also be a problem. Diseases include club root and rots
such as damping off and bacterial soft rot.
Uses:
Pak choi is edible as seedlings,
small immature heads, large mature heads, and while flowering. The
stems are mild and juicy while the leaves have a cabbage-like
flavor. It may be eaten raw in salads or braised, steamed,
stir-fried, or cooked in soups.
CLIVIA
(and similar plants)
These
seeds should be sown immediately upon receiving them. Sow in a
peat-based compost to a depth of ½", then water and
place in a dark environment at a temperature of 65-70ºF.
Signs of germination should appear in 3 weeks.
|
Eggplant
|
Eggplants
are cold-sensitive and require a long warm season for best
results. Plant seeds in sunny warm location in peat pots 8 to 10
weeks before transplanting into garden after all danger of frost
is past and night temperatures are consistently at or above 65
degrees F. Eggplant roots are subject to cold damage and plants
seldom recover from cold snaps. Plant in full sun in fertile,
well-drained soil. Do not permit seedlings or young plants to
suffer from low temperature or drought. Mulching between plants is
useful. Space plants 18 to 24" apart with 30 to 36"
between rows. Plants thrive in the heat of summer. Depending on
the size of fruit you wish to harvest, pinch out terminal growth
and blossoms to allow up to 6 fruits to mature or allow all fruits
to set and harvest when small. For mature fruits, harvest after
some color appears but always while fruits still have their glossy
shine.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Sometimes resembling little trees,
these robust-sized plants up to 3' high and almost that wide can
have purple-tinged green leaves, drooping violet 1 1/2-inch
flowers and, depending on the cultivar, fruits from grape to
almost football size in white, yellow, red, green, violet or
purple.
Problems:
Subject to problems similar to
other Solanaceae crops (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers), including
Verticillium wilt. Avoid these problems by planting resistant
cultivars and rotating with non-Solanaceae crops. Flea beetles,
tomato hornworms, Colorado potato beetles and cutworms can be
problems.
Uses:
Eggplants can be prepared in many ways -- in stews, roasted or
grilled, sauteed, stir-fried, breaded and fried, baked, pickled or
stuffed. They can be spectacular centerpieces in large containers
and very effective in flower garden settings.
|
FERNS
Fern
spores require a fine film of moisture over which to move in order to
complete the reproduction process. A good peat compost, pressed down
firmly, must be used and kept a great deal more moist than normal.
The spore should be sprinkled close together on the surface. Cover
container with a piece of glass and move to a spot of diffused light.
(Should not be in darkness). Compost must remain moist at all times.
Germination begins with the appearance a film of green jelly on the
soil surface. The process can take anywhere from 1 to 5 months before
the plantlets appear.
Ginger
|
This
tropical plant, needing plenty of heat and humidity, may find a
temporary home in a partially shady spot of your summer garden,
but pot culture is more practical for an extended growing period.
The best way to start ginger is to purchase a fresh (not dried or
frozen) root at a grocery store in early spring. Cut the root
(rhizome) into 1- or 2-" sections but long enough to include
several healthy-looking, well-developed growth buds. Let the cut
ends callous over (dry out) a day or so, then plant just below the
soil surface in fertile, well-drained soil. Water sparingly until
top growth develops, otherwise the rhizome could rot. Once
established, water heavily, fertilize monthly, and keep in a
partially shaded location. Provided with adequate space, ginger
can reach a height of 4' with a 2- to 3-foot spread. Bring in
before temperatures drop below 50 degrees F. Rhizomes may rot in
cold wet soil. Allow several months before harvesting to allow
rhizomes to reach adequate size. With care, new sections may be
harvested while allowing the remainder to continue growing.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
True ginger is one of the oldest
known and most widely consumed spices.
Problems:
Rhizomes are subject to root rot
in cold and wet conditions.
Uses:
The fresh or frozen rhizome is grated and used in Eastern
recipes in soups, stir fry, and numerous other meat, poultry and
seafood dishes. Crystallized ginger root is a popular Asian
confection. The young sprouts are also edible. Dried and ground,
the spice has a Western culinary tradition in baking, candies and
puddings.
|
Jicama
|
This tropical root vegetable is
winter hardy to USDA Zones 10-12. Although it is a perennial vine,
jicama can be grown as an annual by sowing seed in spring and
harvesting tubers in fall. In the St. Louis area, tubers may be
rather small by harvest time because this plant normally needs 9
months of growth to produce a good sized root. Plants may be grown
from seed started indoors in flats or peat pots about 4-6 weeks
prior to last spring frost date. Site plants outdoors in large
pots or in the ground in full sun after all danger of frost is
past and ground temperatures have increased to at least 50 degrees
F. Best growth occurs in light, fertile, well-drained soils.
Frequent and consistent watering is needed when plants are growing
rapidly. If planted in the ground, space starter plants 6-8"
apart in rows that are 12" apart. To enhance root growth,
keep vines pruned to 3-5' and pinch off flowers as they appear.
Harvest tubers in fall just prior to first frost. Depending on
condition and size, potted plants may be brought indoors to a
bright sunny spot.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Pachyrhizus erosus is a tuberous
rooted vine in the legume family. It is native to Mexico and
Central America, but has been planted in a number of tropical
areas around the globe. It has naturalized in parts of southern
Florida and Hawaii. Common name is jicama (pronounced
hee'-kah-muh). It is also commonly called yam bean, Mexican turnip
and Mexican potato. It is almost exclusively grown for its edible
tuberous roots which somewhat resemble turnips in appearance. All
above ground parts of this plant (vine, leaves, flowers, pods and
seeds) contain rotenone (an insecticide - see listing herein as
botanical insecticide) and are toxic. Mature vines will grow to
20-30' long. Vines are clad with toothed or lobed, ovate to
rhomboid lateral leaves (to 6"long). Violet to white flowers
bloom in axillary racemes. Flowers give way to seed pods (to 5-6"
long). Brown skinned tubers have a crisp white flesh that somwhat
resembles apples and a taste that somewhat resembles water
chestnuts with a touch of sweetness. Tubers have a large number of
culinary uses: fresh tuber slices may be added to salads, soups,
vegetables dishes, stews or served as an appetizer with dips or
stir fried. In Mexico, fresh tuber sticks are sold by street
vendors as a snack (tubers are cut into sticks and sprinkled with
chili and lime juice). This vegetable is commercially produced in
Mexico and several Central American countries for export to other
countries including the U. S. where it is commonly sold in the
produce section of grocery stores. Genus name from Greek means
thick (pachys) root (rhiza).
Problems:
No serious insect or disease
problems. All above grounds parts of this plant (especially the
seeds) are toxic and should be kept away from children.
Uses:
This tuberous rooted vegetable has a number of culinary uses.
It is usually not grown as an ornamental vine, although it can be
grown on a trellis in frost free areas for display of its
attractive foliage, flowers and seed pods.
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Kale
|
Sow seeds in flats in May and
June, transplant into well-drained garden spot in July and August
when 4 to 6" high planting 18" apart. Tolerates poor
soil. Keep bed cultivated. Frost and snow hardy. Can also be
seeded under glass in January and February for harvesting like
spinach when 6" high. Roots will resprout.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
One of the best sources of winter
and spring greens. Harvest small young leaves starting in
November. Strip ground to stimulate new side shoots for February
through May. Harvest entire shoot when 4 to 5" long. Frost
improves flavor. Eat fresh or chopped for stews and soups. Some
older varieties such as 'Ragged Jack’ are perennial.
Problems:
Least troubled of Brassicas;
however, use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or remove cabbage worms
by hand to keep leaves intact.
Uses:
Ornamental kales come in white, pink, purple, green, red, and
blue. Ornamentals are edible but considerably less tasty than
those selected for culinary use.
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Leeks
|
Leeks are non-hardy biennials
treated as annuals. They like a rich, well-drained soil with ample
nitrogen and organic matter, in full sun. Leeks grow slowly. For
transplanting, sow in flats in February and March ¼"
apart and ¼" deep. Transplant to cell-type containers
when large enough to handle and keep well fertilized. Big
transplants will grow the best leeks. In Spring, when 8 to 18"
tall, transplant outdoors 6" apart in rows 24" apart by
dropping into dibble holes about 6" deep. Only an inch or two
of leaves should extend above the soil surface. Do not firm the
soil; allow irrigation or rain to fill in the hole. For direct
seeding, sow in early Spring, 6 seeds to a foot, ¼ to ½"
deep in rows 24" apart. Thin to 6" apart. For blanching,
during the growing period hill the plants with soil 2 or 3 times,
higher with each hoeing. This forces the leaves higher up the
plant, producing extra long blanched stalks making a much greater
edible portion. When using the dibble method, hilling is reduced
or eliminated.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Leeks have delicate, sweet and
mild oniony flavor without the hot pungency of some onions. Leeks
may be harvested at any time; small leeks are used like scallions.
Leeks are non-hardy biennials, and produce a large flowering ball
atop a tall stem the second year.
Problems:
Rust is probably the most serious
disease affecting leeks. Remedy is to remove and destroy (not
compost) all infected plants and plant parts.
Uses:
Leeks may be eaten raw or cooked, in salads, stir fry, soups,
and stews.
|
LILIES
Some lily seeds
require a double dormancy (a period of warmth followed by a period of
cold). Sow seeds in a flat in summer. Place in a plastic bag and
place in fridge for the winter, or cover with a piece of glass and
set in cold frame. Seeds should germinate in spring. An alternative
method is to place seeds in a jar with a ibt of peat kept moist, but
not saturated. Screw lid on jar and place in a warm spot (70-75ºF)
for 3 to 4 months. Check regularly. If any have sprouted, prick out
and pot up. After the period of warmth, place in fridge for winter.
The majority of the seeds that will germinate, will do so when
returned to springlike warmth. Soil should be peaty and lime free
with good drainage. Once bulbs are established, keep nearly dry
during the winter months. Lilies resent being too wet.
Millet
|
Sow closely (3 to 6" apart)
1" deep after soil temperature reaches 65 degrees F in a
thoroughly tilled, weed-free, well-drained soil in full sun. Firm
soil after sowing. Does not do well in water-logged soil.
Depending on variety, may be ready for harvest in 40 to 70 days.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Proso or common millet grows to a
height of up to 4 feet. It has bright green leaves and stout erect
stems, and may spread somewhat at the base. Millet is used as a
meal for making baked goods and can also be eaten raw. It is used
in porridge and kasha. The hull is hard and indigestible and
therefore must be removed before human consumption. Hulling has no
adverse affect on nutritional value. Millet has a mildly sweet,
nut-like flavor and contains myriad beneficial nutrients. It
contains more essential amino acids than wheat, oats, barley, rye,
or rice. With buckwheat as a complement, the two provide the
complete protein structures needed by humans. Millet is the
sixth-most-important grain in the world and sustains 1/3 of the
world’s population. Various millets, including Proso, were
introduced into East Asia from ancient India long ago, passing
through the northern mountains of Southeast Asia and eastward,
eventually reaching north China and Manchuria. While millet has,
to some degree, been replaced with rice as the major grain for
much of China, it remains the sole staple of northern Korea. In
India, millet is ground and baked as chapati. In north China and
Manchuria, it is ground, shaped into balls, and steamed. A dozen
or more Proso millet varieties exist, with primary differences
relating to seed color (red or white), plant height (3 to 4 feet),
seed size, and speed to maturity.
Problems:
In the seedling stage, Proso
cannot compete successfully with weeds. Generally disease free,
seedling blights and root rot can be controlled through crop
rotation. Rodents and birds can be serious problems during the
head ripening stage.
Uses:
As a grain.
|
Onions, Bunching
|
Sow seeds in early spring for
summer use and in July or August for fall and spring use. Plant
1/4” to 1/2” apart and 1/2" deep in rows of 2”
to 3” bands in well- drained, sandy and limey soil. Any
organic material should be well composted. Provide regular shallow
cultivation to reduce weed competition. These are “bulbless”
bunching onions and may be harvested as they reach a size for
practical use. Continue harvesting as needed. Best if grown fast
with adequate water.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Bunching onions are hardy and take
up very little space.
Problems:
Few pests affect Japanese bunching
onions.
Uses:
Widely used raw in all manners of salads, garnish for soups and
stews, and in Chinese cooking and stir fry.
|
Pea, Garden
|
Plant as a cool season crop,
ideally between 55 degrees and 65 degrees F. Sow seeds closely
where they are to grow in fertile, moisture-retentive, neutral
soil. Podded varieties should be staked or grown on a trellis but
pea-shoot varieties can be allowed to creep along the ground.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Peas are hardy annuals native to
Eurasia that have been grown since 7,000 B.C. The common garden
pea, Pisum sativum. var. sativum, has a fibrous pod that is not
edible. The seeds are harvested when almost mature and eaten fresh
as shelled peas or the pods can be left to mature when the mature
seeds are harvested and used dried. Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon
lacks the fibers in the inner lining found in the common pea.
Hence, the pod is edible as well as the tender peas inside. This
group includes the edible-podded, sugar, snow and snap peas. The
young tips, called pea shoots, of any of the varieties of Pisum
sativum may be harvested and cooked as a pot herb. Pea shoots are
a delicacy in Chinese cuisine. The smooth-seeded types are more
cold hardy than the wrinkled-seeded varieties.
Problems:
Powdery mildew and slugs may be
occasional problems. Seeds can also rot if planted too early in
damp, cold ground.
Uses:
Depending upon the cultivar chosen, peas can be grown for their
sweet shelled peas, as edible-podded, as snap peas, as Asian snow
peas, or for their edible shoots. Snap and snow peas work well in
Asian stir-frys and the edible shoots are excellent raw or cooked
in soup, steamed, or stir fried. Eat raw with lemon juice dripped
over them, wilted with olive oil and garlic, steamed or sautéed
in butter with salt and butter. Substitute for spinach in
Florentine seafood dishes. Bake in white sauce au gratin, or serve
with a cream cheese or mustard sauce.
|
Peppers, Chili
|
Peppers
demand warm weather and don’t like their roots disturbed.
Plant seeds in a sunny warm location in peat pots (3 seeds to a
pot, thinning to 1 plant per pot) 6 to 8 weeks before
transplanting into the garden after all danger of frost is past
and night temperatures are consistently at or above 55 degrees F.
Plant in full sun in fertile well-drained soil 18 to 24"
apart in rows 18 to 24" apart. Do not permit seedlings or
plants to suffer from low temperature or drought. Mulching between
plants is useful. Avoid planting where peppers, tomatoes, or
eggplants grew previously. All three are members of the nightshade
family and are subject to similar diseases. After one or more
plantings of any of these three in a particular location,
carryover pathogens in the soil can infect new plants. Peppers do
well as container plants, and can be maintained over longer
periods with indoor wintering, providing a sufficiently sunny
location is available.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Most peppers, also known as chili
peppers, can be categorized as one of three general types: sweet
peppers, hot peppers or ornamental peppers. However, these
categories are general at best. Some hot peppers aren’t hot,
all peppers can be highly ornamental, many ornamental peppers are
hot, etc. -- and none of these categories necessarily mirror
botanical nomenclature distinctions. Peppers were one of the
earliest plants cultivated in the New World. Archeological
evidence suggests that peppers were used as food ingredients in
Peru more than 8,000 years ago. Columbus mistakenly applied the
label ‘pepper’ to the plant he found growing in
Caribbean gardens, likely confusing it with the highly prized but
botanically unrelated black pepper. Within 100 years, peppers had
spread around the world and today constitute the defining
ingredient in traditional cuisines worldwide, including countries
such as Italy, Thailand, Hungary, India, Spain, China and Holland.
Botanically, most cultivated peppers today are Capsicum annuum
(most common), C. frutescens (tabasco), C. chinense (habanero), or
crosses within and among these various species.
Problems:
Potential pests include aphids,
white flies, cutworms, pepper maggots, and Colorado potato
beetles. Diseases include Verticillium wilt and mosaic virus.
Uses:
All peppers can be highly ornamental with deep green leaves and
fruit of a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors. Colors may
include green, red, yellow, chocolate, orange, lilac, purple,
ivory and mahogany. As fruits gradually ripen, several colors can
be found on a plant simultaneously.
|
Potato
|
Potatoes need space and sun, with
fertile and well-drained sandy soil. Acid soil is best and reduces
the likelihood of scab. Potatoes are tolerant of cool soil and
moderate frost. In the spring, 2 to 3 weeks before the last
average frost or as soon as the soil can be worked, plant "seed
potatoes" 2 to 3" deep, 12" apart, in rows 2 1/2 to
3' apart. When plants are about 12" tall, hill with a 6- to
8-" high mound of straw, soil, or compost to keep developing
tubers from exposure to sunlight. (Note: When exposed to sunlight,
tubers turn green and develop a mildly toxic substance called
solanine.) Also, leaving only a small portion of the vine exposed
provides for additional root development. Once the plants blossom,
stop hilling up the soil and apply a thick mulch to conserve
moisture and control weeds. Water regularly and thoroughly. Dig
early potatoes when tops begin to flower; dig mature potatoes when
tops die down. Dig carefully to avoid bruising and cutting tubers.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
The potato is a cool-season
vegetable that ranks with wheat and rice as one of the most
important staples in the human diet. The white potato is often
referred to as the "Irish potato" because of Ireland’s
19th-century dependence on that vegetable as its primary food
source. The Irish potato famine, caused by a blight also in the
19th century, points out the shortcomings of a nation-wide
dependence on one variety of one crop type agriculture. The potato
variety planted at that time was highly susceptible to that
specific blight pathogen, and potato harvests were essentially
nonexistent for several years. These past events, however, should
not be a worry of the home gardener. Though not the most widely
grown home garden vegetable, potatoes can be a very rewarding
crop: 2 pounds of seed potatoes can yield 50 pounds of potatoes.
There are more than 100 varieties of potatoes currently under
cultivation, ranging from finger-sized tubers to tubers of such
magnitude that one can feed a family. Colors of flesh include
white, gray, golden, pink, deep yellow, and even a rich
purple-blue.
Problems:
Colorado potato beetles, flea
beetles, wireworms, and leafhoppers can reduce yields
substantially. Potatoes are subject to several fungal, bacterial
and viral diseases. Most can be avoided by rotating potatoes with
non-Solanaceae crops, keeping the garden area free of debris and
garden tools clean, and planting disease-free/disease-resistant
cultivars. If diseases occur, remove and destroy all affected
plants.
Uses:
Cooked in many dishes.
|
Purslane
|
After all danger of frost is past,
sow seeds in fertile, well-drained soil in full sun about 1/2 to
1" apart with 12" between rows, covering with 1/4"
of soil. Provide water generously to facilitate germination and
thin to 4 to 6" apart. Once established, purslane can
tolerate severe drought. Plantlets can be harvested when 4 to 5
leaves have formed, usually in about 20 days. Once established,
harvest can be continuous, picking to within 2" of the base.
Regrowth will occur rapidly. Allow one plant to go to seed before
frost and collect seeds from mature seed capsules for the next
year.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Purslane is an annual, low growing
plant with up to a 2-foot spread, with thick green oval leaves 1/2
to 3/4" long and thick reddish fleshy stems. Flowers are
yellow. Probably originating in the region from the western
Himalayas to southern Russia and Greece, today it is distributed
over the hot temperate zones of a great part of the world. It is
cultivated in the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, and other
European countries, and is a popular winter vegetable in Northern
India. The French call it "pourpier" and the Mexicans
call it "verdolaga," and both cultures use it in salads,
soups, stews, tomato sauces, and even with scrambled eggs. It has
been cultivated for more than 4,000 years. To get a general idea
of the antiquity and geographic dispersion of its cultivation, one
needs only note the various linguistic roots of the many common
names applied to this plant, including Sanskrit, Hindustani,
Persian, Greek, and Latin. Tenth-century Arabic treatises provide
detailed information on varieties and cultivation.
Seventeenth-century English recipes used by the cooks of Charles
II list it as a salad ingredient.
Problems:
Cold and weeds are the most
significant problems of purslane.
Uses:
Fresh in salads or cooked. Can be highly attractive if
permitted to spread and flower, with bright green leaves, red
stems, and sunshine yellow flowers. However, it can be a pest if
permitted to reseed.
|
Radicchio
|
Soil
should be well-drained, with ample organic matter and a pH of 7 or
above. Moisture should be available at all times. Best results are
obtained in cool and mild weather, with nights below 60 degrees F.
For early planting, seed in peat pots or plug trays and transplant
outside in two or three weeks. Floating row covers protect against
pests and frosts. Set out transplants 8” apart with 18”
between rows.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
This chicory is gaining popularity
as an important component of spring salads. Newer varieties can be
harvested within 60 days from transplanting.
Problems:
Similar to lettuce: snails, slugs,
and cutworms can be a problem.
Uses:
Salads.
|
Radish
|
Best grown in full sun in loamy or
sandy soils. Can be seeded directly in two-week intervals between
mid-April and the first of May for a spring crop and in the month
of August for a fall crop. Radishes become tough and develop a
hotter taste as they become older. Harvest when young before
radishes bolt and become woody. Daikon radishes (R.s.
Longipinnatus Group) are best planted in July and August when soil
temperatures are above 60 degrees F and the radishes have an
opportunity to mature by fall. Sow seeds in full sun directly into
the garden 1/4 to 1/2" deep, firming the soil somewhat after
planting. Thin to 4 or 6" apart to ensure adequate room for
root development. Before sowing, be sure the soil is cultivated
and loose as deep as the radishes will be long. Raised beds are
ideal for long radishes. Keep well fertilized and watered to
insure mild flavor and tenderness.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Radishes have had a long
relationship with man. Southern Asia is believed to be the country
of origin since truly wild forms have been found there. Middle
Asia and India appear to be secondary centers where many different
forms developed subsequently. Third-century B.C. Greeks wrote of
their radishes, and by 100 A.D., Roman writers described small and
large types, mild and biting varieties, and round and long forms.
A German botanist in 1544 reported radishes of 100 pounds.
Radishes appear to be one of the first European crops introduced
into the Americas, closely behind the arrival of Columbus. The
white daikon (“big root” in Japanese) is common in
Japan, and gardeners in increasing numbers are growing it here.
The daikon has a milder, sweeter flavor than ordinary radishes.
The root shape of all varieties is either long and cylindrical or
short and round. The cylindrical roots range from 6" to 2'
long and are either tapered or blunt at the end. The round
varieties are the size of a baseball.
Problems:
Flea beetles can be a problem as
well as other pests typically found on Brassicaceae crops.
Floating row covers can be very useful.
Uses:
Raw, cooked or pickled.
|
Shallot
|
Plant as sets (bulblets) in early
spring as soon as ground can be worked, about 6" apart in
rows 8" apart with ½ to 1" covering of soil. Give
room to grow as each bulblet will become a whole clump. They
prefer well-drained, sandy and limey soil. Any organic material
should be well composted. Provide regular shallow cultivation to
reduce weed competition. Harvest tops or entire plant at anytime.
Pull as green onions when 8" tall. Top harvesting will delay
bulb crop maturity. Harvest bulbs when tops die back: pull soil
away from clump to expose to full sun, pull up in several days,
let dry outside for several days before moving to screens or racks
in dark dry environment.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Shallots are considered essential
in French cooking, with a flavor somewhere between onions and
garlic. Use greens as you would use green onions or chives. Use
bulbs for soups, salad dressing, vegetable dishes, and casseroles.
The onion is a cultivated vegetable of great antiquity and is not
known as a wild plant. Greeks and Romans believed shallots
originated in Palestine.
Problems:
Onion yellows is a viral disease
that attacks all members of the onion family, especially non-seed
types vegetatively propagated by bulblets. The virus stunts the
plants, deforms foliage, and over winters in bulbs and bulblets.
Using infected bulbs and bulblets spreads the virus through insect
vectors to other onions in the vicinity. Select planting stock
from reputable sources to insure they are virus free. Do not plant
bulbs or bulblets that may have a problem.
Uses:
Fresh like green onions or in cooking.
|
Squash, Summer
|
This annual vine can easily be
grown from seed. It is best grown in fertile, organically rich,
medium moisture, well-drained loams in full sun. Seeds may be
planted outdoors when soil temperatures have risen to at least 65
degrees F., typically about the time of last spring frost.
Distance between plants varies depending on the plant variety and
growing method. In general, if row planting for bush type, place 3
seeds together 2-3' apart in rows 3-6' apart. Thin later to 1 or 2
plants per hole. Vining types need to be spaced 3-4' apart in rows
8' apart. Seed can also be started indoors about 3 weeks before
the last spring frost date, with young plants set out after last
frost date. Seedlings are cold sensitive. Fertilize well, as
plants can be heavy producers. Fruits resting on mulch, straw or
boards resist rot. Plants will continue to produce until the first
frost if all fruits are picked prior to maturity. Harvest summer
squash when young before flesh gets woody and seeds harden.
Harvest winter squash when mature but prior to first fall frost.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Squashes can be divided into two
general categories: summer squash (eaten as immature fruits before
seeds harden) and winter squash (eaten only after fruit has grown
to maturity). Curcubia pepo is a large and diverse species
that was probably first domesticated in Mexico. It primarily
consists of summer squash including crookneck (var. torticollia),
straightneck (var. recticollis), scallop (var. clypeata),
vegetable marrow (var. fastigata), cocozzelle (var. inoga)
and zucchini (var. cylindrica), but also contains several
notable winter squashes including pumpkin (var. pepo) and
acorn (var. turbinata). Summer squashes mature rapidly and
can be harvested in as little as 50 days, while winter squashes
can take over 120 to fully ripen. These squashes primarily come in
vine or bush form, are usually prickly, and usually have
conspicuously-lobed leaves. All varieties need ample room.
Problems:
Cucumber beetles carrying
bacterial wilt, squash vine borers and squash bugs are the most
common insect pests. Squash borers (caterpillars) tunnel into
stems, causing that portion of the vine to wilt. Look for entry
holes with droppings outside, make a vertical slit in the problem
stem, and remove the caterpillar. Squash bugs can be removed by
hand or by placing boards near the plants at night (bugs hide
under the boards and can be destroyed the next morning).
Additional potential insect pests include aphids, cutworms,
pickleworm, leaf miners, white flies, squash bugs, and stink bugs.
Watch for mites. Potential disease problems include bacterial
wilt, fusarium wilt, blossom end rot, downy mildew and powdery
mildew. Watermelon and cucumber mosaic virus may appear.
Uses:
Summer squashes can be eaten raw in salads or stir-fried,
batter fried, steamed, or cooked in a variety of additional ways
including such things as zucchini breads. Summer squash blossoms
are excellent in soups and stews, sauteed, stuffed, or dipped in
batter and fried.
|
STRELITZIA
(a/k/a Bird of Paradise)
Remove orange tuft
and soak for a minimum of two hours up to overnight and as long as 3
days (change water daily). Sow seeds in moist sand, pressing them
into the sand till only a small part is visible. Grow in a
temperature of 75ºF in the dark and make sure the sand remains
moist. After 7 days, inspect container once a week. As soon as signs
of germination appear, remove the germinating seed and pot up in a
medium composed of half peat and half sand. As soon as potted, make
sure there is plenty of diffuse light and good ventilation to avoid
fungal problems. Germination can occur as early as one week and as
late as 6 months. Extremely irregular in habit.
Swiss Chard
|
Best grown in moist, fertile,
organically rich, light to sandy, well-drained soils in full sun
to light shade. Beet seeds (dried "seed clusters", each
with 3 or 4 seeds) may be sown in the ground about 30 days prior
to the last spring frost date. Plant seeds clusters 1/2"
deep. Several seedlings will emerge from each seed cluster. Young
seedlings should be thinned carefully by hand to a spread of about
3-4" between plants. When grown in rows in vegetable gardens,
leave about 18" between rows. Successive plantings may be
made at monthly intervals during the season (seed planted in the
heat of the summer may not germinate however). Baby leaves develop
in 35 days. Baby beets develop in 9-11 weeks. For proper growth,
beets need regular and consistent moisture, with additional water
provided during hot and dry summer periods.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Beta vulgaris, as used herein,
refers to the red beetroot or beet that is sold in grocery stores
as a vegetable under the common name of garden beet. Although
proper nomenclature for this species is complicated, garden beet
cultivars are often abbreviated in commerce as Beta vulgaris
followed by the cultivar name. This beet may be cooked for use as
a vegetable, pickled for use as a condiment, added to salads,
bottled/canned or made into the classic soup known as borscht.
Each plant typically forms a dense rosette of dark green leaves
that grow in a clump to 18" tall (sometimes more). Beets are
best dug and harvested when 2-3" in diameter. Non-showy,
greenish flowers (sometimes tinged red) appear in dense spikes.
Plants of this species have historically been selected, bred and
cultivated for a number of different purposes, including not only
the garden beets (root vegetable) described herein but also sugar
beets (sugar extraction), mangelwurzel (livestock fodder) and
swiss chard/spinach beets (leaf vegetable).
Problems: Click for
detailed list of pests and problems.
No serious insect or disease
problems. Beets may suffer from fungal leaf spots, downy mildew,
powdery mildew and root rots. Watch for leaf miners, flea beetles,
leafhoppers, aphids and caterpillars.
Uses:
Garden vegetable.
|
Tatsoi
|
Tat soi is a cool weather crop.
Prostrate varieties are resistant to cold down to -5 to -10
degrees F.; upright varieties will tolerate a light frost. Sow
seeds in fertile moisture-retentive soil in late spring for a
spring/summer crop and in late summer for a fall crop. Seeds may
also be sown earlier in spring if given protection with row covers
or in summer although high temperatures or lack of moisture may
encourage the plants to bolt. Thin seedlings to 6” to 8”
apart with 12” to 18” between rows. If larger rosettes
are desired, thin to 12” to 16” apart. As they reach
desired size, harvest individual leaves, the center rosette, or
the entire head (about an inch above the base of the plant to
encourage regrowth). Rosettes may take up to 7 to 8 weeks to
mature.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Also known as rosette pak choi and
flat cabbage, tat soi has very thick lustrous black green leaves
arranged in a rosette of regular, concentric circles, with
prostrate and upright varieties. The leaves vary from flat and
smooth to puckered and crepe-like. This is an attractive plant
with potential as a border for flower beds and ground cover as
well as a vegetable. Some authorities include tat soi in the
Brassica rapa (Chinensis Group).
Problems:
Slugs, snails, cutworms, and flea
beetles can be a problem.
Uses:
Similar in flavor to pak choi, tat soi can be used at all
stages: seedling leaves, small rosettes, large plants, and young
flowering shoots. Young leaves and small rosettes are used raw in
salads and stir fry. Tat soi may also be cooked in soups, sautéed,
or added to pasta.
|
Tomatillo
|
This
member of the Solanaceae family can generally be treated like its
relative, the tomato. Sow seeds in peat pots 4 to 6 weeks before
date of last frost or sow directly in ground after all danger of
frost is past and night temperatures are 55 degrees F or above.
Plants are quite robust, 3 or 4' across and almost as high, so
allow plenty of room. Tomato cages can reduce the sprawl somewhat.
Plant in fertile, well-drained soil, in full sun. Water regularly,
fertilize, and keep well mulched for best results.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Tomatillos are a necessary
ingredient of most Mexican salsas. Fruits are borne inside a paper
“husk” (the calyx) and are also known as husk
tomatoes. When fully ripe, the yellow to purple sweet fruits will
swell and split the husks. However, most culinary uses, such as
Mexican salsa verde, call for harvesting when the fruit is still
green and tart. Tomatillos are easy to grow and very productive.
The fruits will keep through the winter if stored loose in a cool
place.
Problems:
Subject to similar pests and
diseases as other members of the Solanaceae family. Whenever
possible, don’t plant a Solanaceae crop in the same garden
spot where a Solanaceae crop was grown in the last three years.
Uses:
In salsas or as seasoning in other dishes.
|
Turnip
|
Sow seeds 1/2" deep, 1"
apart, and thin to 2 to 4" apart in rows 1 1/2' apart in
early spring (3 weeks before last likely frost). For best tasting
crops, sow in mid-summer (early- to mid-August). Provide full sun
and fertile, well-drained soil. Keep soil evenly moist to ensure
rapid growth and best flavor. Flavor of all turnips becomes more
pungent under drier conditions. Turnips are best if harvested
young, 2" or less in diameter.
Noteworthy Characteristics:
Turnips come in a variety of
shapes, sizes, and colors. They can be round, flat, or
cylindrical: yellow or white, with or without green, red, or
purple near the top. Some can reach 50 pounds. Turnips are grown
for both tops and roots. They’re low in fats and
carbohydrate-rich. The larger the turnip, the more pungent.
Turnips have an ancient lineage, European types having developed
in the Mediterranean region. Early Greeks already had several
varieties. The Asiatic turnips probably originated in Middle Asia
west of the Himalayas. The European-type turnip was grown in what
is now France at least as early as 100 A.D. In the time of Henry
VIII, the English boiled or baked the roots, cooked the greens,
and used young shoots raw in salad.
Problems:
Turnips are susceptible to the
same pests as other Brassica species: slugs, snails, cutworms,
cabbage worms, root maggots, wireworms, and flea beetles. Diseases
include fusarium wilt, southern blight, soft rot, black rot, brown
heart, damping off, and powdery mildew. Woody turnips may be
caused by insufficient water or fertilizer or delayed harvesting.
Uses:
Both tops and root cooked or raw.
|
Warning Signs of
Soil Nutrient Deficiency
|
Element
|
Function
|
Deficiency symptoms in plants
|
|
Macronutrients:
|
|
N - nitrogen
|
Component of all amino acids, enzymes, proteins, etc.
|
Uniform yellowing appears first on lower leaves. Growth
ceases.
|
|
P - phosphorous
|
Essential for ADP, ATP, DNA, RNA. Involved in protein
synthesis.
|
Purple veins. Some plants: unform ashy color. Stunted
growth.
|
|
K - potassium
|
Regulates water uptake. Component of cell walls.
|
Tip-burn, brown spots appear first on lower leaves. Weak
stems.
|
|
Ca - calcium
|
Component of cell walls. Involved in cell division.
|
Uniform yellowing appears first on young leaves. Growing
tips (roots and shoots) die. Plants dwarfed.
|
|
Mg - magnesium
|
Component of chlorophyll. Enzyme activator.
|
Yellowing of the veins. Yellowed areas die.
|
|
S - sulphur
|
Component of all proteins. Important in enzyme reactions
and photosynthesis.
|
Uniform yellowing in whole plant. Thin lateral stems
(exception: Cruciferae).
|
|
Micronutrients (only a few GRAMS per acre needed)
|
|
Fe - iron
|
Component or co-factor of many oxidases.
|
Yellowing of the veins. Larger veins stay green.
|
|
Mn - manganese
|
Essential for photosynthesis, N-metabolism,
N-assimilation.
|
Yellowing of the veins in younger leaves.
|
|
Zn - zinc
|
Promotes growth hormones, seed maturation and production
|
Rosette. Small yellowed leaves. Scalloped leaf edges.
|
|
Cu - copper
|
Important in photosynthesis, protein and carbohydrate
metabolism.
|
Pale yellow-bleached leaves. Leaves and stems not firm.
Tip and stem dieback.
|
|
B - boron
|
Essential for cell division + development. Synthesis of
nucleic acids, plant hormones.
|
Yellowing of younger leaves. Internal browning of cork of
stems and fruit. Many flowers abort.
|
|
Mo - molybdenum
|
Essential for N-fixation and assimilation.
|
Uniform yellowing of whole plant. Extreme curling of
leaves.
|
|
Cl - chlorine
|
Influences photosynthesis and root growth.
|
Unknown.
|
|
Co - cobalt
|
Essential for N-fixation.
|
Unknown.
|
|