Welcome to:

Dollar Seed


P.O. Box 504
Cortland, NY 13045



Our Seed Planting Guide

Plant type Date to Sow Indoors Date to Sow in Garden Seed Spacing P=Plants
R=Rows
Seed depth Maturity
Asparagus n/a Perennial
Plant in early spring
P=12"
R=3-4 ft.
2-3" Second year
Avocado Any Time Tree P=10 ft. 2-3" 3-5 years
Beans, bush n/a April-May P=4"
R=18-24"
1½" 60 days
Beans, pole n/a May P=36"
R=48"
1½-2" 60 days
Beets n/a April and again in June P=4"
R=18"
½" 40-70 days
Broccoli n/a April-May
P=24"
R=30-36"
½-1" 4-5 months
Brussels Sprouts n/a Plants: early spring
Seeds: late June
P=18-24"
R=3 ft.
¼" 90 days
Cabbage Feb-March, Into garden in May April P=24"
R=24-36"
½" 4-5 months
Carrots n/a April and again in July P=2-4"
R=18-24"
½" 90 days
Cauliflower Jan.-Feb. Into garden in May May P=15"
R=24-36"
½" 4-5 months
Corn (sweet) n/a May Successive plantings every 2 weeks P=3"
R=24"
1" 2-3 months
Cucumbers n/a May-June P=36-48"
R=36-48"
3-4 plants per mound
1" 2-3 months
Eggplants Feb.-March Set in garden in May 2 weeks after last frost P=24"
R=36"
¼" 4-5+ months
Gourds n/a Last Frost P=12" ¾" 120-180 days
Horseradish n/a Perennial
Plant in early spring
P=4 ft. 2" First Fall
Kiwi n/a Set plants in early Spring Plant male vine and female vine one foot apart Node at ground level Second year
Lettuce Feb.-March Set in garden in early April April P=8-12"
R=18-24"
¼" 70-90 days
Okra n/a 2 weeks after last frost P=12"
R=3-4 ft.
¾" 50-75 days
Onions February Set in garden in April Plant onion sets in April P=3"
R=12-18"
½" seeds 3-4 months sets 50-60 days
Peanuts n/a Plant seeds in early April P=3"
R=30-36"
1-1½" Fall
Peas n/a April Successive plantings every 2 weeks P=3-6" (double row)
R=72"
1½-2" 60 days
Peppers Feb.-March Set in garden in May May P=24"
R=24"
½" 4-5 months
Potatoes n/a April-May P=8"
R=36"
3-6" 90-150 days
Pumpkins n/a May P=6-8"
R=36"
3-4" 4-5 months
Radishes Feb.-March Into garden early April April P=1-3"
R=18-24"
½" 30 days
Raspberry n/a Late Fall/ Early Spring P=2 ft.
R=7-8 ft.
2" deeper than current depth Early Summer
Rhubarb n/a Perennial
Plant in early spring
P=24"
R=24-36"
¾" Second spring
Spinach n/a April P=6"
R=12-18"
½" 90 days
Squash n/a May-June P=36"
R=36" 3-4 plants per mound
½-1" 4-5 months
Strawberries n/a Late Fall/ Early Spring P=18"
R=18"
plant crown Varies
Tomato March May P=30-36"
R=30-36"
½" 4-5 months
Watermelons and muskmelons n/a May P=72"
R=72" 1-2 plants per mound
1" 4-5 months

More Vegetable, Herb & Flower Info


Alstroemeria, Bonsai, Clematis, Hardy Cyclamen, Eucalyptus, Helleborus, Hosta, Pimula, Iris

Between October and February, sow in compost and just barely cover. Place container in cold frame. Protect from predation by mice. Leave till spring. Keep medium moist but not wet. In spring bring containers into greenhouse or place on a well lit, but not sunny, windowsill. Keep moist. If seeds do not germinate, keep them in cool, moist conditions through summer and place back in cold frame in late fall. Once seeds do begin to germinate, remove them individually almost at once and set in pots.
An alternative method is to sow between March and September in a compost designed for these plants. Place the container in a plastic bag and place in refrigerator for 2 to 3 weeks. Remove and place in cold frame. If some should germinate, plant up when large enough to handle. The rest of the seeds will remain dormant until the following spring.
Alstroemeria, Clematis, Hardy Cyclamen and Helleborus can take up to 18 months to germinate.
Primulas can also be sown in a pre-moistened peat-based compost. The seeds should not be covered if using this method. Cover container with glass or plastic and place in the dark at 60ºF. If the temp goes over 65º, germination will not occur. Once seeds have begun to germinate, sprinkle a small bit of compost over them. When the leaves appear, move container to a place that is well lit (not direct sunlight) and has a temp of 55ºF.



Amaranthus

Sow seeds in full sun about 1" apart in warm (70 degrees F) fertile, well-drained soil, covering lightly with fine soil or thin sprinkling of grass mulch to hold the small seeds in place. Thin to 6" apart in rows 12" apart. Best results are obtained if plants are provided ample water and fertilizer, especially nitrogen, to promote leaf growth. Pinch off terminal buds to encourage branching, harvest individual leaves and cut back to 6" to encourage lateral growth for successive harvests. Cut young tender leaves once or twice a week until plants start to set seeds.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Originating in South Central Mexico, amaranth now has worldwide distribution. It produces generous quantities of large tender and nutritious oval leaves (medium-green overlaid with a burgundy cast and resembling coleus). Those strains identified as vegetable amaranth are selected for their culinary attributes. Others, identified usually as Joseph’s-coat cultivars, have been selected for their colorful foliage.

Problems:

Chewing insects such as cucumber beetles and Japanese beetles may damage leaves. Floating row covers can be affective deterrents.

Uses:

Amaranthus are excellent raw in salads, used as a steamed vegetable, and included in soups and stews. Other strains of Amaranthus tricolor bear large leaves in brilliant shades of red, yellow, bronze and green on handsome plants reaching up to 6 feet high. They make a strong statement in large borders, in large beds, and even in pots.

Asian Greens


Asian greens are cold-tolerant and the seeds may be sown in flats or directly in the ground in early spring or in late summer to fall for a late season crop. Row covers may be necessary during severe cold, especially for mibuna which is less cold hardy. Seeds may also be sown during the summer although the quality may be less and bolting may be a problem in very hot weather. Asian greens grow best in fertile, moisture-retentive soil and lack of moisture at any stage adversely affects quality. Floating row covers provide sun and pest protection. Depending on the cultivar, space 4" to 18" apart with 18" between rows. Plants may be harvested at almost any stage from seedling to mature plant. Harvest individual leaves or cut the plant about 3/4 inch above ground level to encourage resprouting.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Asian greens is a general term used to describe mizuna, mibuna, and in some cases, komatsuna greens. Other common names include Japanese mustard, potherb mustard, Japanese greens, and California peppergrass. They are all characterized by clumps of dark green leaves with thin white stalks. Mizuna leaves are dissected and feathery, mibuna leaves are long and narrow, and komatsuna leaves are oval-shaped. Primarily grown in Japan, these vegetables are becoming more popular in the United States, especially mizuna which is used in mesclun mixes. The flavor of Asian greens resembles that of cabbage, mustard, and spinach; as the plants age, the flavor may become more piquant.

Problems:

Asian greens suffer from all the normal Brassica pests and diseases. Flea beetles, aphids, slugs, cabbage caterpillars and cutworms are the most likely pests. Possible diseases are bacterial rot and turnip mosaic virus.

Uses:

Asian greens are used raw or cooked in salads, soups, stir fries, or stuffing. Milder greens will be more flavorful when used raw.

Banana, Coffee, Cyads (and similar plants); Orange, Palms, Tea


These plants are highly erratic in germination and can require several months. Seeds must be soaked for a minimum of 2 hours in warm water before sowing. Sow in compost especially designed for these plants and place in the dark at 75ºF. Keep compost moist at all times, but not wet. Check regularly and once in a while, dig around in the compost with a small knife or similar tool. Sow seeds just below the surface of the soil. Should a seed produce a root and no shoot, prick it out immediately and pot it in a 3 to 4" pot. It should produce a shoot then. When ready to be potted, Cycads prefer a planting medium of half sand and half peat. Tea requires the same treatment as the others but prefers a temperature of 60-65ºF. After soaking, remove the parchment-like on the coffee seeds with your fingernail before planting.


BEAD PLANT

Use a good draining medium free of fertilizer. Equal parts moss, peat and sand makes a good medium. Barely cover the seed and cover with glass or clear plastic. Place container in temp of 65-75ºF. Since too much condensation can damage the young seedlings, be sure to lift glass or plastic and remove daily. When the first seedlings are spotted, remove cover and place in bright spot, but not in direct sunlight. Plant up seedlings as soon as possible in a mixture of ½ peat and ½ sand. Keep moist and in a shaded spot until well established.



Begonia, Bromellads, Cineraria, Calceolaria, Drosera, Christmas Cactus, Living Stones, Meconopsis, Nepenthes, Rubber Plants, Saintpaulia, Sarracenias, Streptocarpus, Tibouchina

Surface sow on compost that is quite moist. Cover container with glass or clear plastic and place in diffuse light at temperature of 65ºF. When seeds begin to germinate, remove covering gradually. Seeds can also be spread on damp paper toweling or blotting paper and covered with plastic on windowsill which gets good light. Do NOT place in direct sunlight. Keep paper moist until seedlings are large enough to prick out and plant in small pots. For Drosera, Nepenthes, and Sarracenias make sure medium is both moist and free draining. Use NO fertilizer, but compost should contain some sphagnum moss.



Cacti



Sow in compost. Furrow should be very shallow and seeds must not be completely covered. Water from beneath. Cover container with glass, then a piece of dark paper (as from paper bag) or a piece of black plastic. Position in a dark place, maintaining a temperature of 70-75ºF. Keep moist. When germination commences, move to a position that receives indirect light (do not place in sun). Allow good air flow and continue watering from beneath. When seedlings begin to overcrowd the container, pot up. During the first winter season, make sure to keep plants warm, but do not allow to get too dry. From second year onward, keep on the dry side during the winter months.






Chinese, Pak Choi


Pak choi is a cool season plant that will tolerate light frosts. Seeds should be sown about ¼ inch deep in early spring for a spring and early summer crop or in mid to late summer for a fall crop. Spacing is dependent on the size of the particular variety being grown and on its intended use. Pak choi that is to be harvested in the immature or baby stage may be grown much closer together than pak choi that is to be grown to the mature stage. Harvest pak choi whenever it reaches the desired size by picking individual leaves or cutting the whole head at ground level. If sown during the summer, pak choi will have a tendency to bolt, although that may be lessened by consistent watering and harvesting the plants when young. Pak choi grows quickly making it a good plant for intercropping. Row covers may be useful in preventing insect and frost damage.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

There are several names for the Asian vegetables in this group including pak choi, bok choy, Chinese celery cabbage, Chinese white cabbage, mustard cabbage, and choysum. Most are characterized by a loose head of green leaves with white stalks. (Pak or bok translates to white and choi or choy translates to vegetable.) There are many kinds available ranging in size from 3-4 inches tall to 24 inches tall, with leaves from dark green to light green and with stalks from white to pale green.

Problems:

Insect pests include flea beetles and caterpillars such as cabbage loopers and cutworms. Slugs and snails may also be a problem. Diseases include club root and rots such as damping off and bacterial soft rot.

Uses:

Pak choi is edible as seedlings, small immature heads, large mature heads, and while flowering. The stems are mild and juicy while the leaves have a cabbage-like flavor. It may be eaten raw in salads or braised, steamed, stir-fried, or cooked in soups.



CLIVIA (and similar plants)



These seeds should be sown immediately upon receiving them. Sow in a peat-based compost to a depth of ½", then water and place in a dark environment at a temperature of 65-70ºF. Signs of germination should appear in 3 weeks.


Eggplant



Eggplants are cold-sensitive and require a long warm season for best results. Plant seeds in sunny warm location in peat pots 8 to 10 weeks before transplanting into garden after all danger of frost is past and night temperatures are consistently at or above 65 degrees F. Eggplant roots are subject to cold damage and plants seldom recover from cold snaps. Plant in full sun in fertile, well-drained soil. Do not permit seedlings or young plants to suffer from low temperature or drought. Mulching between plants is useful. Space plants 18 to 24" apart with 30 to 36" between rows. Plants thrive in the heat of summer. Depending on the size of fruit you wish to harvest, pinch out terminal growth and blossoms to allow up to 6 fruits to mature or allow all fruits to set and harvest when small. For mature fruits, harvest after some color appears but always while fruits still have their glossy shine.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Sometimes resembling little trees, these robust-sized plants up to 3' high and almost that wide can have purple-tinged green leaves, drooping violet 1 1/2-inch flowers and, depending on the cultivar, fruits from grape to almost football size in white, yellow, red, green, violet or purple.

Problems:

Subject to problems similar to other Solanaceae crops (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers), including Verticillium wilt. Avoid these problems by planting resistant cultivars and rotating with non-Solanaceae crops. Flea beetles, tomato hornworms, Colorado potato beetles and cutworms can be problems.

Uses:

Eggplants can be prepared in many ways -- in stews, roasted or grilled, sauteed, stir-fried, breaded and fried, baked, pickled or stuffed. They can be spectacular centerpieces in large containers and very effective in flower garden settings.

FERNS



Fern spores require a fine film of moisture over which to move in order to complete the reproduction process. A good peat compost, pressed down firmly, must be used and kept a great deal more moist than normal. The spore should be sprinkled close together on the surface. Cover container with a piece of glass and move to a spot of diffused light. (Should not be in darkness). Compost must remain moist at all times. Germination begins with the appearance a film of green jelly on the soil surface. The process can take anywhere from 1 to 5 months before the plantlets appear.



Ginger


This tropical plant, needing plenty of heat and humidity, may find a temporary home in a partially shady spot of your summer garden, but pot culture is more practical for an extended growing period. The best way to start ginger is to purchase a fresh (not dried or frozen) root at a grocery store in early spring. Cut the root (rhizome) into 1- or 2-" sections but long enough to include several healthy-looking, well-developed growth buds. Let the cut ends callous over (dry out) a day or so, then plant just below the soil surface in fertile, well-drained soil. Water sparingly until top growth develops, otherwise the rhizome could rot. Once established, water heavily, fertilize monthly, and keep in a partially shaded location. Provided with adequate space, ginger can reach a height of 4' with a 2- to 3-foot spread. Bring in before temperatures drop below 50 degrees F. Rhizomes may rot in cold wet soil. Allow several months before harvesting to allow rhizomes to reach adequate size. With care, new sections may be harvested while allowing the remainder to continue growing.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

True ginger is one of the oldest known and most widely consumed spices.

Problems:

Rhizomes are subject to root rot in cold and wet conditions.

Uses:

The fresh or frozen rhizome is grated and used in Eastern recipes in soups, stir fry, and numerous other meat, poultry and seafood dishes. Crystallized ginger root is a popular Asian confection. The young sprouts are also edible. Dried and ground, the spice has a Western culinary tradition in baking, candies and puddings.

Jicama



This tropical root vegetable is winter hardy to USDA Zones 10-12. Although it is a perennial vine, jicama can be grown as an annual by sowing seed in spring and harvesting tubers in fall. In the St. Louis area, tubers may be rather small by harvest time because this plant normally needs 9 months of growth to produce a good sized root. Plants may be grown from seed started indoors in flats or peat pots about 4-6 weeks prior to last spring frost date. Site plants outdoors in large pots or in the ground in full sun after all danger of frost is past and ground temperatures have increased to at least 50 degrees F. Best growth occurs in light, fertile, well-drained soils. Frequent and consistent watering is needed when plants are growing rapidly. If planted in the ground, space starter plants 6-8" apart in rows that are 12" apart. To enhance root growth, keep vines pruned to 3-5' and pinch off flowers as they appear. Harvest tubers in fall just prior to first frost. Depending on condition and size, potted plants may be brought indoors to a bright sunny spot.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Pachyrhizus erosus is a tuberous rooted vine in the legume family. It is native to Mexico and Central America, but has been planted in a number of tropical areas around the globe. It has naturalized in parts of southern Florida and Hawaii. Common name is jicama (pronounced hee'-kah-muh). It is also commonly called yam bean, Mexican turnip and Mexican potato. It is almost exclusively grown for its edible tuberous roots which somewhat resemble turnips in appearance. All above ground parts of this plant (vine, leaves, flowers, pods and seeds) contain rotenone (an insecticide - see listing herein as botanical insecticide) and are toxic. Mature vines will grow to 20-30' long. Vines are clad with toothed or lobed, ovate to rhomboid lateral leaves (to 6"long). Violet to white flowers bloom in axillary racemes. Flowers give way to seed pods (to 5-6" long). Brown skinned tubers have a crisp white flesh that somwhat resembles apples and a taste that somewhat resembles water chestnuts with a touch of sweetness. Tubers have a large number of culinary uses: fresh tuber slices may be added to salads, soups, vegetables dishes, stews or served as an appetizer with dips or stir fried. In Mexico, fresh tuber sticks are sold by street vendors as a snack (tubers are cut into sticks and sprinkled with chili and lime juice). This vegetable is commercially produced in Mexico and several Central American countries for export to other countries including the U. S. where it is commonly sold in the produce section of grocery stores. Genus name from Greek means thick (pachys) root (rhiza).

Problems:

No serious insect or disease problems. All above grounds parts of this plant (especially the seeds) are toxic and should be kept away from children.

Uses:

This tuberous rooted vegetable has a number of culinary uses. It is usually not grown as an ornamental vine, although it can be grown on a trellis in frost free areas for display of its attractive foliage, flowers and seed pods.

Kale



Sow seeds in flats in May and June, transplant into well-drained garden spot in July and August when 4 to 6" high planting 18" apart. Tolerates poor soil. Keep bed cultivated. Frost and snow hardy. Can also be seeded under glass in January and February for harvesting like spinach when 6" high. Roots will resprout.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

One of the best sources of winter and spring greens. Harvest small young leaves starting in November. Strip ground to stimulate new side shoots for February through May. Harvest entire shoot when 4 to 5" long. Frost improves flavor. Eat fresh or chopped for stews and soups. Some older varieties such as 'Ragged Jack’ are perennial.

Problems:

Least troubled of Brassicas; however, use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or remove cabbage worms by hand to keep leaves intact.

Uses:

Ornamental kales come in white, pink, purple, green, red, and blue. Ornamentals are edible but considerably less tasty than those selected for culinary use.

Leeks



Leeks are non-hardy biennials treated as annuals. They like a rich, well-drained soil with ample nitrogen and organic matter, in full sun. Leeks grow slowly. For transplanting, sow in flats in February and March ¼" apart and ¼" deep. Transplant to cell-type containers when large enough to handle and keep well fertilized. Big transplants will grow the best leeks. In Spring, when 8 to 18" tall, transplant outdoors 6" apart in rows 24" apart by dropping into dibble holes about 6" deep. Only an inch or two of leaves should extend above the soil surface. Do not firm the soil; allow irrigation or rain to fill in the hole. For direct seeding, sow in early Spring, 6 seeds to a foot, ¼ to ½" deep in rows 24" apart. Thin to 6" apart. For blanching, during the growing period hill the plants with soil 2 or 3 times, higher with each hoeing. This forces the leaves higher up the plant, producing extra long blanched stalks making a much greater edible portion. When using the dibble method, hilling is reduced or eliminated.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Leeks have delicate, sweet and mild oniony flavor without the hot pungency of some onions. Leeks may be harvested at any time; small leeks are used like scallions. Leeks are non-hardy biennials, and produce a large flowering ball atop a tall stem the second year.

Problems:

Rust is probably the most serious disease affecting leeks. Remedy is to remove and destroy (not compost) all infected plants and plant parts.

Uses:

Leeks may be eaten raw or cooked, in salads, stir fry, soups, and stews.

LILIES

Some lily seeds require a double dormancy (a period of warmth followed by a period of cold). Sow seeds in a flat in summer. Place in a plastic bag and place in fridge for the winter, or cover with a piece of glass and set in cold frame. Seeds should germinate in spring. An alternative method is to place seeds in a jar with a ibt of peat kept moist, but not saturated. Screw lid on jar and place in a warm spot (70-75ºF) for 3 to 4 months. Check regularly. If any have sprouted, prick out and pot up. After the period of warmth, place in fridge for winter. The majority of the seeds that will germinate, will do so when returned to springlike warmth. Soil should be peaty and lime free with good drainage. Once bulbs are established, keep nearly dry during the winter months. Lilies resent being too wet.



Millet



Sow closely (3 to 6" apart) 1" deep after soil temperature reaches 65 degrees F in a thoroughly tilled, weed-free, well-drained soil in full sun. Firm soil after sowing. Does not do well in water-logged soil. Depending on variety, may be ready for harvest in 40 to 70 days.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Proso or common millet grows to a height of up to 4 feet. It has bright green leaves and stout erect stems, and may spread somewhat at the base. Millet is used as a meal for making baked goods and can also be eaten raw. It is used in porridge and kasha. The hull is hard and indigestible and therefore must be removed before human consumption. Hulling has no adverse affect on nutritional value. Millet has a mildly sweet, nut-like flavor and contains myriad beneficial nutrients. It contains more essential amino acids than wheat, oats, barley, rye, or rice. With buckwheat as a complement, the two provide the complete protein structures needed by humans. Millet is the sixth-most-important grain in the world and sustains 1/3 of the world’s population. Various millets, including Proso, were introduced into East Asia from ancient India long ago, passing through the northern mountains of Southeast Asia and eastward, eventually reaching north China and Manchuria. While millet has, to some degree, been replaced with rice as the major grain for much of China, it remains the sole staple of northern Korea. In India, millet is ground and baked as chapati. In north China and Manchuria, it is ground, shaped into balls, and steamed. A dozen or more Proso millet varieties exist, with primary differences relating to seed color (red or white), plant height (3 to 4 feet), seed size, and speed to maturity.

Problems:

In the seedling stage, Proso cannot compete successfully with weeds. Generally disease free, seedling blights and root rot can be controlled through crop rotation. Rodents and birds can be serious problems during the head ripening stage.

Uses:

As a grain.

Onions, Bunching



Sow seeds in early spring for summer use and in July or August for fall and spring use. Plant 1/4” to 1/2” apart and 1/2" deep in rows of 2” to 3” bands in well- drained, sandy and limey soil. Any organic material should be well composted. Provide regular shallow cultivation to reduce weed competition. These are “bulbless” bunching onions and may be harvested as they reach a size for practical use. Continue harvesting as needed. Best if grown fast with adequate water.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Bunching onions are hardy and take up very little space.

Problems:

Few pests affect Japanese bunching onions.

Uses:

Widely used raw in all manners of salads, garnish for soups and stews, and in Chinese cooking and stir fry.

Pea, Garden



Plant as a cool season crop, ideally between 55 degrees and 65 degrees F. Sow seeds closely where they are to grow in fertile, moisture-retentive, neutral soil. Podded varieties should be staked or grown on a trellis but pea-shoot varieties can be allowed to creep along the ground.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Peas are hardy annuals native to Eurasia that have been grown since 7,000 B.C. The common garden pea, Pisum sativum. var. sativum, has a fibrous pod that is not edible. The seeds are harvested when almost mature and eaten fresh as shelled peas or the pods can be left to mature when the mature seeds are harvested and used dried. Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon lacks the fibers in the inner lining found in the common pea. Hence, the pod is edible as well as the tender peas inside. This group includes the edible-podded, sugar, snow and snap peas. The young tips, called pea shoots, of any of the varieties of Pisum sativum may be harvested and cooked as a pot herb. Pea shoots are a delicacy in Chinese cuisine. The smooth-seeded types are more cold hardy than the wrinkled-seeded varieties.

Problems:

Powdery mildew and slugs may be occasional problems. Seeds can also rot if planted too early in damp, cold ground.

Uses:

Depending upon the cultivar chosen, peas can be grown for their sweet shelled peas, as edible-podded, as snap peas, as Asian snow peas, or for their edible shoots. Snap and snow peas work well in Asian stir-frys and the edible shoots are excellent raw or cooked in soup, steamed, or stir fried. Eat raw with lemon juice dripped over them, wilted with olive oil and garlic, steamed or sautéed in butter with salt and butter. Substitute for spinach in Florentine seafood dishes. Bake in white sauce au gratin, or serve with a cream cheese or mustard sauce.

Peppers, Chili



Peppers demand warm weather and don’t like their roots disturbed. Plant seeds in a sunny warm location in peat pots (3 seeds to a pot, thinning to 1 plant per pot) 6 to 8 weeks before transplanting into the garden after all danger of frost is past and night temperatures are consistently at or above 55 degrees F. Plant in full sun in fertile well-drained soil 18 to 24" apart in rows 18 to 24" apart. Do not permit seedlings or plants to suffer from low temperature or drought. Mulching between plants is useful. Avoid planting where peppers, tomatoes, or eggplants grew previously. All three are members of the nightshade family and are subject to similar diseases. After one or more plantings of any of these three in a particular location, carryover pathogens in the soil can infect new plants. Peppers do well as container plants, and can be maintained over longer periods with indoor wintering, providing a sufficiently sunny location is available.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Most peppers, also known as chili peppers, can be categorized as one of three general types: sweet peppers, hot peppers or ornamental peppers. However, these categories are general at best. Some hot peppers aren’t hot, all peppers can be highly ornamental, many ornamental peppers are hot, etc. -- and none of these categories necessarily mirror botanical nomenclature distinctions. Peppers were one of the earliest plants cultivated in the New World. Archeological evidence suggests that peppers were used as food ingredients in Peru more than 8,000 years ago. Columbus mistakenly applied the label ‘pepper’ to the plant he found growing in Caribbean gardens, likely confusing it with the highly prized but botanically unrelated black pepper. Within 100 years, peppers had spread around the world and today constitute the defining ingredient in traditional cuisines worldwide, including countries such as Italy, Thailand, Hungary, India, Spain, China and Holland. Botanically, most cultivated peppers today are Capsicum annuum (most common), C. frutescens (tabasco), C. chinense (habanero), or crosses within and among these various species.

Problems:

Potential pests include aphids, white flies, cutworms, pepper maggots, and Colorado potato beetles. Diseases include Verticillium wilt and mosaic virus.

Uses:

All peppers can be highly ornamental with deep green leaves and fruit of a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors. Colors may include green, red, yellow, chocolate, orange, lilac, purple, ivory and mahogany. As fruits gradually ripen, several colors can be found on a plant simultaneously.

Potato



Potatoes need space and sun, with fertile and well-drained sandy soil. Acid soil is best and reduces the likelihood of scab. Potatoes are tolerant of cool soil and moderate frost. In the spring, 2 to 3 weeks before the last average frost or as soon as the soil can be worked, plant "seed potatoes" 2 to 3" deep, 12" apart, in rows 2 1/2 to 3' apart. When plants are about 12" tall, hill with a 6- to 8-" high mound of straw, soil, or compost to keep developing tubers from exposure to sunlight. (Note: When exposed to sunlight, tubers turn green and develop a mildly toxic substance called solanine.) Also, leaving only a small portion of the vine exposed provides for additional root development. Once the plants blossom, stop hilling up the soil and apply a thick mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds. Water regularly and thoroughly. Dig early potatoes when tops begin to flower; dig mature potatoes when tops die down. Dig carefully to avoid bruising and cutting tubers.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

The potato is a cool-season vegetable that ranks with wheat and rice as one of the most important staples in the human diet. The white potato is often referred to as the "Irish potato" because of Ireland’s 19th-century dependence on that vegetable as its primary food source. The Irish potato famine, caused by a blight also in the 19th century, points out the shortcomings of a nation-wide dependence on one variety of one crop type agriculture. The potato variety planted at that time was highly susceptible to that specific blight pathogen, and potato harvests were essentially nonexistent for several years. These past events, however, should not be a worry of the home gardener. Though not the most widely grown home garden vegetable, potatoes can be a very rewarding crop: 2 pounds of seed potatoes can yield 50 pounds of potatoes. There are more than 100 varieties of potatoes currently under cultivation, ranging from finger-sized tubers to tubers of such magnitude that one can feed a family. Colors of flesh include white, gray, golden, pink, deep yellow, and even a rich purple-blue.

Problems:

Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles, wireworms, and leafhoppers can reduce yields substantially. Potatoes are subject to several fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. Most can be avoided by rotating potatoes with non-Solanaceae crops, keeping the garden area free of debris and garden tools clean, and planting disease-free/disease-resistant cultivars. If diseases occur, remove and destroy all affected plants.

Uses:

Cooked in many dishes.

Purslane



After all danger of frost is past, sow seeds in fertile, well-drained soil in full sun about 1/2 to 1" apart with 12" between rows, covering with 1/4" of soil. Provide water generously to facilitate germination and thin to 4 to 6" apart. Once established, purslane can tolerate severe drought. Plantlets can be harvested when 4 to 5 leaves have formed, usually in about 20 days. Once established, harvest can be continuous, picking to within 2" of the base. Regrowth will occur rapidly. Allow one plant to go to seed before frost and collect seeds from mature seed capsules for the next year.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Purslane is an annual, low growing plant with up to a 2-foot spread, with thick green oval leaves 1/2 to 3/4" long and thick reddish fleshy stems. Flowers are yellow. Probably originating in the region from the western Himalayas to southern Russia and Greece, today it is distributed over the hot temperate zones of a great part of the world. It is cultivated in the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, and other European countries, and is a popular winter vegetable in Northern India. The French call it "pourpier" and the Mexicans call it "verdolaga," and both cultures use it in salads, soups, stews, tomato sauces, and even with scrambled eggs. It has been cultivated for more than 4,000 years. To get a general idea of the antiquity and geographic dispersion of its cultivation, one needs only note the various linguistic roots of the many common names applied to this plant, including Sanskrit, Hindustani, Persian, Greek, and Latin. Tenth-century Arabic treatises provide detailed information on varieties and cultivation. Seventeenth-century English recipes used by the cooks of Charles II list it as a salad ingredient.

Problems:

Cold and weeds are the most significant problems of purslane.

Uses:

Fresh in salads or cooked. Can be highly attractive if permitted to spread and flower, with bright green leaves, red stems, and sunshine yellow flowers. However, it can be a pest if permitted to reseed.

Radicchio



Soil should be well-drained, with ample organic matter and a pH of 7 or above. Moisture should be available at all times. Best results are obtained in cool and mild weather, with nights below 60 degrees F. For early planting, seed in peat pots or plug trays and transplant outside in two or three weeks. Floating row covers protect against pests and frosts. Set out transplants 8” apart with 18” between rows.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

This chicory is gaining popularity as an important component of spring salads. Newer varieties can be harvested within 60 days from transplanting.

Problems:

Similar to lettuce: snails, slugs, and cutworms can be a problem.

Uses:

Salads.

Radish



Best grown in full sun in loamy or sandy soils. Can be seeded directly in two-week intervals between mid-April and the first of May for a spring crop and in the month of August for a fall crop. Radishes become tough and develop a hotter taste as they become older. Harvest when young before radishes bolt and become woody. Daikon radishes (R.s. Longipinnatus Group) are best planted in July and August when soil temperatures are above 60 degrees F and the radishes have an opportunity to mature by fall. Sow seeds in full sun directly into the garden 1/4 to 1/2" deep, firming the soil somewhat after planting. Thin to 4 or 6" apart to ensure adequate room for root development. Before sowing, be sure the soil is cultivated and loose as deep as the radishes will be long. Raised beds are ideal for long radishes. Keep well fertilized and watered to insure mild flavor and tenderness.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Radishes have had a long relationship with man. Southern Asia is believed to be the country of origin since truly wild forms have been found there. Middle Asia and India appear to be secondary centers where many different forms developed subsequently. Third-century B.C. Greeks wrote of their radishes, and by 100 A.D., Roman writers described small and large types, mild and biting varieties, and round and long forms. A German botanist in 1544 reported radishes of 100 pounds. Radishes appear to be one of the first European crops introduced into the Americas, closely behind the arrival of Columbus. The white daikon (“big root” in Japanese) is common in Japan, and gardeners in increasing numbers are growing it here. The daikon has a milder, sweeter flavor than ordinary radishes. The root shape of all varieties is either long and cylindrical or short and round. The cylindrical roots range from 6" to 2' long and are either tapered or blunt at the end. The round varieties are the size of a baseball.

Problems:

Flea beetles can be a problem as well as other pests typically found on Brassicaceae crops. Floating row covers can be very useful.

Uses:

Raw, cooked or pickled.





Shallot



Plant as sets (bulblets) in early spring as soon as ground can be worked, about 6" apart in rows 8" apart with ½ to 1" covering of soil. Give room to grow as each bulblet will become a whole clump. They prefer well-drained, sandy and limey soil. Any organic material should be well composted. Provide regular shallow cultivation to reduce weed competition. Harvest tops or entire plant at anytime. Pull as green onions when 8" tall. Top harvesting will delay bulb crop maturity. Harvest bulbs when tops die back: pull soil away from clump to expose to full sun, pull up in several days, let dry outside for several days before moving to screens or racks in dark dry environment.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Shallots are considered essential in French cooking, with a flavor somewhere between onions and garlic. Use greens as you would use green onions or chives. Use bulbs for soups, salad dressing, vegetable dishes, and casseroles. The onion is a cultivated vegetable of great antiquity and is not known as a wild plant. Greeks and Romans believed shallots originated in Palestine.

Problems:

Onion yellows is a viral disease that attacks all members of the onion family, especially non-seed types vegetatively propagated by bulblets. The virus stunts the plants, deforms foliage, and over winters in bulbs and bulblets. Using infected bulbs and bulblets spreads the virus through insect vectors to other onions in the vicinity. Select planting stock from reputable sources to insure they are virus free. Do not plant bulbs or bulblets that may have a problem.

Uses:

Fresh like green onions or in cooking.

Squash, Summer



This annual vine can easily be grown from seed. It is best grown in fertile, organically rich, medium moisture, well-drained loams in full sun. Seeds may be planted outdoors when soil temperatures have risen to at least 65 degrees F., typically about the time of last spring frost. Distance between plants varies depending on the plant variety and growing method. In general, if row planting for bush type, place 3 seeds together 2-3' apart in rows 3-6' apart. Thin later to 1 or 2 plants per hole. Vining types need to be spaced 3-4' apart in rows 8' apart. Seed can also be started indoors about 3 weeks before the last spring frost date, with young plants set out after last frost date. Seedlings are cold sensitive. Fertilize well, as plants can be heavy producers. Fruits resting on mulch, straw or boards resist rot. Plants will continue to produce until the first frost if all fruits are picked prior to maturity. Harvest summer squash when young before flesh gets woody and seeds harden. Harvest winter squash when mature but prior to first fall frost.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Squashes can be divided into two general categories: summer squash (eaten as immature fruits before seeds harden) and winter squash (eaten only after fruit has grown to maturity). Curcubia pepo is a large and diverse species that was probably first domesticated in Mexico. It primarily consists of summer squash including crookneck (var. torticollia), straightneck (var. recticollis), scallop (var. clypeata), vegetable marrow (var. fastigata), cocozzelle (var. inoga) and zucchini (var. cylindrica), but also contains several notable winter squashes including pumpkin (var. pepo) and acorn (var. turbinata). Summer squashes mature rapidly and can be harvested in as little as 50 days, while winter squashes can take over 120 to fully ripen. These squashes primarily come in vine or bush form, are usually prickly, and usually have conspicuously-lobed leaves. All varieties need ample room.

Problems:

Cucumber beetles carrying bacterial wilt, squash vine borers and squash bugs are the most common insect pests. Squash borers (caterpillars) tunnel into stems, causing that portion of the vine to wilt. Look for entry holes with droppings outside, make a vertical slit in the problem stem, and remove the caterpillar. Squash bugs can be removed by hand or by placing boards near the plants at night (bugs hide under the boards and can be destroyed the next morning). Additional potential insect pests include aphids, cutworms, pickleworm, leaf miners, white flies, squash bugs, and stink bugs. Watch for mites. Potential disease problems include bacterial wilt, fusarium wilt, blossom end rot, downy mildew and powdery mildew. Watermelon and cucumber mosaic virus may appear.

Uses:

Summer squashes can be eaten raw in salads or stir-fried, batter fried, steamed, or cooked in a variety of additional ways including such things as zucchini breads. Summer squash blossoms are excellent in soups and stews, sauteed, stuffed, or dipped in batter and fried.

STRELITZIA (a/k/a Bird of Paradise)

Remove orange tuft and soak for a minimum of two hours up to overnight and as long as 3 days (change water daily). Sow seeds in moist sand, pressing them into the sand till only a small part is visible. Grow in a temperature of 75ºF in the dark and make sure the sand remains moist. After 7 days, inspect container once a week. As soon as signs of germination appear, remove the germinating seed and pot up in a medium composed of half peat and half sand. As soon as potted, make sure there is plenty of diffuse light and good ventilation to avoid fungal problems. Germination can occur as early as one week and as late as 6 months. Extremely irregular in habit.



Swiss Chard



Best grown in moist, fertile, organically rich, light to sandy, well-drained soils in full sun to light shade. Beet seeds (dried "seed clusters", each with 3 or 4 seeds) may be sown in the ground about 30 days prior to the last spring frost date. Plant seeds clusters 1/2" deep. Several seedlings will emerge from each seed cluster. Young seedlings should be thinned carefully by hand to a spread of about 3-4" between plants. When grown in rows in vegetable gardens, leave about 18" between rows. Successive plantings may be made at monthly intervals during the season (seed planted in the heat of the summer may not germinate however). Baby leaves develop in 35 days. Baby beets develop in 9-11 weeks. For proper growth, beets need regular and consistent moisture, with additional water provided during hot and dry summer periods.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Beta vulgaris, as used herein, refers to the red beetroot or beet that is sold in grocery stores as a vegetable under the common name of garden beet. Although proper nomenclature for this species is complicated, garden beet cultivars are often abbreviated in commerce as Beta vulgaris followed by the cultivar name. This beet may be cooked for use as a vegetable, pickled for use as a condiment, added to salads, bottled/canned or made into the classic soup known as borscht. Each plant typically forms a dense rosette of dark green leaves that grow in a clump to 18" tall (sometimes more). Beets are best dug and harvested when 2-3" in diameter. Non-showy, greenish flowers (sometimes tinged red) appear in dense spikes. Plants of this species have historically been selected, bred and cultivated for a number of different purposes, including not only the garden beets (root vegetable) described herein but also sugar beets (sugar extraction), mangelwurzel (livestock fodder) and swiss chard/spinach beets (leaf vegetable).

Problems: Click for detailed list of pests and problems.

No serious insect or disease problems. Beets may suffer from fungal leaf spots, downy mildew, powdery mildew and root rots. Watch for leaf miners, flea beetles, leafhoppers, aphids and caterpillars.

Uses:

Garden vegetable.

Tatsoi



Tat soi is a cool weather crop. Prostrate varieties are resistant to cold down to -5 to -10 degrees F.; upright varieties will tolerate a light frost. Sow seeds in fertile moisture-retentive soil in late spring for a spring/summer crop and in late summer for a fall crop. Seeds may also be sown earlier in spring if given protection with row covers or in summer although high temperatures or lack of moisture may encourage the plants to bolt. Thin seedlings to 6” to 8” apart with 12” to 18” between rows. If larger rosettes are desired, thin to 12” to 16” apart. As they reach desired size, harvest individual leaves, the center rosette, or the entire head (about an inch above the base of the plant to encourage regrowth). Rosettes may take up to 7 to 8 weeks to mature.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Also known as rosette pak choi and flat cabbage, tat soi has very thick lustrous black green leaves arranged in a rosette of regular, concentric circles, with prostrate and upright varieties. The leaves vary from flat and smooth to puckered and crepe-like. This is an attractive plant with potential as a border for flower beds and ground cover as well as a vegetable. Some authorities include tat soi in the Brassica rapa (Chinensis Group).

Problems:

Slugs, snails, cutworms, and flea beetles can be a problem.

Uses:

Similar in flavor to pak choi, tat soi can be used at all stages: seedling leaves, small rosettes, large plants, and young flowering shoots. Young leaves and small rosettes are used raw in salads and stir fry. Tat soi may also be cooked in soups, sautéed, or added to pasta.




Tomatillo



This member of the Solanaceae family can generally be treated like its relative, the tomato. Sow seeds in peat pots 4 to 6 weeks before date of last frost or sow directly in ground after all danger of frost is past and night temperatures are 55 degrees F or above. Plants are quite robust, 3 or 4' across and almost as high, so allow plenty of room. Tomato cages can reduce the sprawl somewhat. Plant in fertile, well-drained soil, in full sun. Water regularly, fertilize, and keep well mulched for best results.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Tomatillos are a necessary ingredient of most Mexican salsas. Fruits are borne inside a paper “husk” (the calyx) and are also known as husk tomatoes. When fully ripe, the yellow to purple sweet fruits will swell and split the husks. However, most culinary uses, such as Mexican salsa verde, call for harvesting when the fruit is still green and tart. Tomatillos are easy to grow and very productive. The fruits will keep through the winter if stored loose in a cool place.

Problems:

Subject to similar pests and diseases as other members of the Solanaceae family. Whenever possible, don’t plant a Solanaceae crop in the same garden spot where a Solanaceae crop was grown in the last three years.

Uses:

In salsas or as seasoning in other dishes.

Turnip



Sow seeds 1/2" deep, 1" apart, and thin to 2 to 4" apart in rows 1 1/2' apart in early spring (3 weeks before last likely frost). For best tasting crops, sow in mid-summer (early- to mid-August). Provide full sun and fertile, well-drained soil. Keep soil evenly moist to ensure rapid growth and best flavor. Flavor of all turnips becomes more pungent under drier conditions. Turnips are best if harvested young, 2" or less in diameter.

Noteworthy Characteristics:

Turnips come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. They can be round, flat, or cylindrical: yellow or white, with or without green, red, or purple near the top. Some can reach 50 pounds. Turnips are grown for both tops and roots. They’re low in fats and carbohydrate-rich. The larger the turnip, the more pungent. Turnips have an ancient lineage, European types having developed in the Mediterranean region. Early Greeks already had several varieties. The Asiatic turnips probably originated in Middle Asia west of the Himalayas. The European-type turnip was grown in what is now France at least as early as 100 A.D. In the time of Henry VIII, the English boiled or baked the roots, cooked the greens, and used young shoots raw in salad.

Problems:

Turnips are susceptible to the same pests as other Brassica species: slugs, snails, cutworms, cabbage worms, root maggots, wireworms, and flea beetles. Diseases include fusarium wilt, southern blight, soft rot, black rot, brown heart, damping off, and powdery mildew. Woody turnips may be caused by insufficient water or fertilizer or delayed harvesting.

Uses:

Both tops and root cooked or raw.






Warning Signs of Soil Nutrient Deficiency


Element

Function

Deficiency symptoms in plants

Macronutrients:

N - nitrogen

Component of all amino acids, enzymes, proteins, etc.

Uniform yellowing appears first on lower leaves. Growth ceases.

P - phosphorous

Essential for ADP, ATP, DNA, RNA. Involved in protein synthesis.

Purple veins. Some plants: unform ashy color. Stunted growth.

K - potassium

Regulates water uptake. Component of cell walls.

Tip-burn, brown spots appear first on lower leaves. Weak stems.

Ca - calcium

Component of cell walls. Involved in cell division.

Uniform yellowing appears first on young leaves. Growing tips (roots and shoots) die. Plants dwarfed.

Mg - magnesium

Component of chlorophyll. Enzyme activator.

Yellowing of the veins. Yellowed areas die.

S - sulphur

Component of all proteins. Important in enzyme reactions and photosynthesis.

Uniform yellowing in whole plant. Thin lateral stems (exception: Cruciferae).

Micronutrients (only a few GRAMS per acre needed)

Fe - iron

Component or co-factor of many oxidases.

Yellowing of the veins. Larger veins stay green.

Mn - manganese

Essential for photosynthesis, N-metabolism, N-assimilation.

Yellowing of the veins in younger leaves.

Zn - zinc

Promotes growth hormones, seed maturation and production

Rosette. Small yellowed leaves. Scalloped leaf edges.

Cu - copper

Important in photosynthesis, protein and carbohydrate metabolism.

Pale yellow-bleached leaves. Leaves and stems not firm. Tip and stem dieback.

B - boron

Essential for cell division + development. Synthesis of nucleic acids, plant hormones.

Yellowing of younger leaves. Internal browning of cork of stems and fruit. Many flowers abort.

Mo - molybdenum

Essential for N-fixation and assimilation.

Uniform yellowing of whole plant. Extreme curling of leaves.

Cl - chlorine

Influences photosynthesis and root growth.

Unknown.

Co - cobalt

Essential for N-fixation.

Unknown.


© Copyright 2010 The Moffitt Family all rights reserved.